Thursday, 22 November 2012

We're off to see the Wizard...

We're off to Melbourne and Sydney for a week.
I am going to attend many a talk about Eyes.
And Tim is going to visit the Melbourne Cricket ground.

Hurrah!


In the meantime, cake!

This cake has been consumed, as was its fate, at Simon's birthday party. 
It was delicious. It was voted the best icing of the night - and how could mascarpone, icing sugar, double cream and vanilla go wrong?
Answer: it couldn't. Fact. 

Folks.
It's sunny outside!
It's the end of the week.
I have just worked two long days in a row- that is 32 hours out of the last 48. 
I am 
weary.
And slightly addled.

But I'm going to Australia!
So that is all right.

Marcus: "Are you going to the Blue Mountains?"
Me: "Yes."
Marcus: "Because the guidebook says it's so beautiful, right?"
Me: "Yes! Are you going to tell me it's rubbish?"
Marcus: "Well...well no, it's ok, it's ok, it's just....we live in New Zealand. So....it's kind of like...nothing is quite as beautiful.....ever. I mean, it's ok for Australia. But it's kind of like, 'oh look, some mountains and trees that aren't as good as the ones back home.'"
Me: "Oh."
Marcus: "But the shopping is very good in Sydney!"

Here is a picture of Marcus


He is eating a cocktail sausage, which I thought was a tiny yam, because Anneka had warned me that tiny yams often look like cocktail sausages when roasted. In fact, it was a double bluff, and it was in fact a cocktail sausage.

The confusions of food in New Zealand!

Speaking of food, we do now have our car, Sticky Gerald, who is apparently no longer sticky, though to be honest the handbrake is still quite sticky, also bearing the marks of having once been chewed vigorously by a dog. Also, it turns out I have forgotten how to drive a manual. Anyway, the point about food is, after we bought Sticky Gerald, we went straight to the store and bought an unreasonable amount of food, and are planning our trip to the English store even now. Await an update eagerly on how it all went!


***

Since I'm not going to be updating for a week or so I know you'll all be weeping into your pillows with no news from me, so I thought I'd finish the North Island extravaganza once and for all. 


After we went skydiving, we went to National Park village and did 2 more days of skiing/snowboarding. 
It was quiet as, the end of the season, with hardly anyone on the slopes but us. The roads were deserted, the air was clear. It was pretty paradisical. 
Having been forewarned by the emptiness of Taupo, we rang up each night before we went out to make sure restaurants were open. Most were, in fact, shut, but we found a lovely restaurant by the rail lines, a converted old Station, with the most amazing food. I got very very tipsy (this was the place where the waitress introduced me to the concept of Framingham Riesling. A beautiful concept!) and ended up speaking in bad Spanish to the only other couple in the place, a Mexican couple whom I DEDUCED they were Mexican from their ACCENTS. I WIN.  They were like, "how did you KNOW?" and I was like, "because the Mexican accent is the best one in the whole world" and they were like, "you speak such good Spanish (lies), come and visit us in Mexico" and I was like, "I am coming to Mexico for my honeymoon! (also, not decided yet) and they were like, "HERE IS MY BUSINESS CARD, WRITE TO ME." And then we all cavorted around the table. And Tim and the waitress were terribly embarrassed. 

So I had a lovely time. 

In fact, the point of that story was to say that when I rang up to check it was open, I forgot to leave my name or phone number on the first go, so relieved was I that it was in fact open, and had to call back in abashed shamefulness, to which the waitress replied, "ah no worries, there's no one here anyway, it's just good to make a reservation in case we get bored and go home early." 

Entertained.



This is Tim having a lovely time on the slopes. We spent most of the morning falling over as it was so horrendously icy and hard and hideous, and then most of the afternoon taking videos of each other in the most poserish manner imaginable, going down these steep steep runs with panache and style (so I imagined).

Tim took me down a black run, for which I will probably never forgive him (I have forgiven him). I fell over 3 times and told him I hated him forever (also not true). But I suppose I am now able to say I went down a black run. 

It wasn't worth it. 



Look how shiny that looks! Shiny and PAINFUL to fall on.
Next season, I am going to learn how to JUMP.
That is a fact.


Goodbye Ruapehu! We both bought season passes for ridiculous cheap - about 130 quid each. Season passes! 
I am going to become INCREDIBLE. Watch me.  There is no excuse. 
Till next season :-) 

***

After the skiing, we went home. 
Tim started nights. 

The next day, we had to get our paperwork sorted for South Africa. Oh my God. The paperwork for South Africa. I took a photo of it at some point, but have lost it. You will have to use your powers of imagination: it showed Tim lying, despondent, on the floor, covered by heaps of paper. Everything had to be signed in triplicate, witnessed, stamped, witnessed again, verified by a Notary Public (NOT a justice of the peace, because they don't even COUNT), and then we had to all swear on the Bible all at once about how we were who we said we were and yes, I do, etc, and bring an extra doctor for verifiication, who was Helen.

This is a photo of Helen


Helen also was post nights and so between her and Tim and me being quite tired and confused, the whole thing became a surreal farce of epic proportions. None of us wanted to say how we weren't particularly Godly re: the Bible swearing, as none of us wanted to prolong this whole business longer than expected, so we all had to hold it turns, swearing, while the lawyer mumbled, "no...now you hold it...yes, now you say I do...yes, now bac to him, now...you go for it...no, back to her...." and so on and so forth. As both I and Tim had to both swear that we were us and then swear for each other and then Helen had to swear for both of us it took all a rather long time and involved much Bible passing. Then in the middle he had to verify our photos and we had failed to glue them onto our pages, so he had to lend us his glue stick, which was like one of those rolley sellotape dispensers so prominent in the 80s and 90s, and then Tim couldn't work it so he had to do it for us. It was very, very comedic.

And then at the end he said, "well seeing as that was a bit longer than I expected...let's charge you $50 each rather than $45." Then he said, "it's not a money making business this, you know."

!!!!!!!

He should have gone into comedy.

They also had no facilities for accepting card payments, so he allowed us to go out, with all our signed and stamped documents, to get some money out.

It's a trusting country, New Zealand.

****

After all that, I felt I deserved a holiday, so Tim went to sleep and I went to Taupo again with some other people.
It was pretty wonderful.

We went kayaking with a very friendly and cheerful Dutch chap who'd lived here for 24 years, yet was still unmistakeably Dutch, in his wholesome and cheerful manner. Observe Fig. 1 above, as he adjusts straps in his cheerful Dutch way.

What is it about the Dutch? Instantly identifiable.

We had to wear strange rubber tutus.


Again, Vogue has missed out on a scoop of a lifetime. 

We kayaked out to the Maori carvings, which we all guessed as being, variously, 500 years old, 300 years old, and 100 years old. Turned out they were like, 20 years old. I mean, I know New Zealand isn't a country of history particularly, but this is just silly.

They were, nonetheless, very beautiful.


The carving had two mouths! When I asked why it had two mouths, our guide replied, "that is a very good question" and then said nothing else. The mystery remains to this day. 


Strange figures cavorted in the rock, and our guide told us that they either were monsters that ate people, or were protectors, or was someone's grandmother who did a lot of cooking for the carvers and so they were so grateful to her they immortalised her in rock, next to all the cavorting monsters, which I'm not sure, as a grandmother, I would like. I mean, I'm not a grandmother. But as a theoretical grandmother, as a woman who has the capacity, I hope, to become a grandmother, I feel instinctively I would not like that.

Take note, theoretical grandchildren. 


We got bamboozled by cheery Dutch person (they are very persuasive) into jumping into Lake Taupo for a quick swim. Lake Taupo is 'famously cold' - about 11 degrees. Cat and I jumped in together - there is a photo somewhere of us doing this, but it was taken on Dutch person's camera, and he has not yet sent it to us. You will therefore have to imagine it. This distresses me slightly, as I imagine it was a good photo. Almost as good as how cold that water was. 

Cat told me later that I had shouted so many colourful obscenities that she completely forgot how cold the water was and was simply taken up in admiration of my imaginative expletive skills.

It was REALLY cold, guys!

We wound up the day by going to the natural hot springs in Taupo. Last time, Tim and I had gone to Debretts Spa - which was pretty fun, but very civilised and, though open to the air, notably a built pool. These natural hot springs bubbled out of the river. They ran down in a hot waterfall. And they mixed with the natural cold waters of the river. And they were HOT. 

So hot that, in our chilled states, they were almost painful. In fact, they were painful. 


Painfully good.


We soon got used to the joyous joyous warmth though, that suffused us through and through and left us with cheesy smiles on our faces.  


It was a really good way to end the day, and when we got out of the water, we felt warm to the bone, warm all the way on our long walk back to the car, and warm the whole evening, so warm that we ate our dinner outside while everyone else looked at us like we were mad. Which we were.  And I fulfilled my dream of eating in Taupo, which was so sadly denied me on my last visit there. I managed this by chivvying and harrassing Sen and Cat continuously from when we left the hot springs to when we stepped out for dinner such that we sat down to dinner at 8pm. And not a second too soon!


The next day, we went horse trekking through some beautiful woodland. I found, disconcertingly, that I did not really like horse riding as I thought I had. This is because in all my previous romantic experiences of horse riding, I'd basically let the horse do whatever they wanted viz eating, walking around in circles, taking a random detour, galloping, all the while feebly jerking the reins in a pathetic manner and hoping they'd do what I wanted. I'd never really asserted my will over a horse before to make it run, turn around, stop eating, and generally behave. And I found it surprisingly unpleasant. 

Still, cantering was a fun experience.


Despite taking a load of anti histamines right before getting on the horse, I was terribly allergic yet again. Horses do tend to have a fugue of horsiness around them such as you don't get with cats, with the effect that I wheezed through the entire trip. It was a shame, but since I found all that riding and imposing my will and so on so deeply troubling (strange, since I do enjoy imposing my will on nurses and doctors more junior than me), not too much of a loss.

***********

And now finally onto Bonfire Night in Palmy, taken, as usual, at the beach.
I think I've finally got used to the idea of autumnal and wintry holidays taken at the beach. All the Christmas adverts in NZ revolve around the idea of a beach picnic, with fairy lights, and running into the surf, and a giant turkey, and this has slowly become less strange and more acceptable.

Though I watched the John Lewis Christmas advert the other day, and that reduced me to nostalgia wibbling.

John Lewis. Quality at a very reasonable price!



The NZ doctors came and socialised too, with their bucket of KFC, because they were too impatient to wait for the BBQ. It's been amazing fun getting to know them all, and of course utter hilarity because they are all little fireballs of gossip, impatience, silliness, and extreme hunger, all of which I share in equal quantity. Our time together is characterised by gossip, impatience, silliness, and large amounts of competitive eating, all of which I enjoy a lot.



It was a really, really glorious day. I think the lighting is different in NZ - the sky is more blue, the clouds are more white, the sun is more bright, there is more contrast, and we all look like we are in some kind of indie road movie all the time.


It was a truly sophisticated BBQ, with garlic bread, and chilli con carne, and baked potatoes, steaks and sausages and prawn kebabs, all cooked over the fire on an iron skillet. And of course, marshmallows.



Flaming marshmallows!



I had remembered to bring my tripod this time, and I spent a long time shooting sparkling photos in the dark. It was much, much darker than this photo appears - so dark I could only see the tips of the sparklers, not the figures at all - and I did exposure times of 15 seconds, which also accounts for why our tiny little fireworks looked so exciting.


Many an expired sparkling later, we finally managed to spell out "Palmy North" and, above, "NZ 2012." You'll have to read it with the eye of faith, but there it is.

****

And now, to Australia!




Saturday, 17 November 2012

200kmph minimum

I know you've all been waiting for this bit.
Well, if you haven't, I have.

****

Now I'd always thought of myself as a person who wouldn't skydive. This was something I was pretty sure of. It had never appealed to me. I felt slightly nauseous every time I considered it. I don't really enjoy rollercoasters. In fact, last time I had to go on one, I cried a little bit. Just on the inside. I don't mind heights, I just really, really dislike the flippy stomach feeling that you get. I hate the stomach feeling. It's my least favourite feeling in the world, which just goes to show what a sheltered life I've led. 

Tim, on the other hand, was pretty certain he was going to go skydiving. He talked about it incessantly. Just as incessantly, I reassured him I would never skydive. 

Then this happened:

Tim:(browsing on the Kiwi equivalent of Groupon)
 "look at this sweet offer! 50% off a Chinese meal in Palmy!:
Me: "Wow! That is a good offer!"
Tim: "I think we should just get this voucher right now."
Me: "I LOVE OFFERS. LET'S BUY IT."
Tim: "Ok! I've bought it! Cheap Chinese meal here we come!"
Me: "Yay! I love cheap Chinese meals!"
Tim: "Hey, there's another one. 50% off tandem skydives at Taupo!"
Me: "Wow! That is a good offer!"
Tim: "I think we should just buy them right now. 50% off! That's 2 for 1!:
Me: "I LOVE 2 FOR 1 OFFERS."
Tim: "Well I've just bought 2 skydives!"
Me: "...................................................................................holy shit."

******

Trapped. Trapped by my own love for amazing deals. Well I knew it would happen one day.

******

In the lead up to the skydive, I canvassed as many opinions as I could about skydiving. 

Me: "I hear it's not really that scary.
Other people: "Well...it's not really that scary. Apart from when you get into the harness. And then you get into the plane. And then it keeps going higher and higher. And then higher. And then they open the door and the wind comes rushing in. And because you're attached to someone, they shuffle you forward so you're kneeling out of the plane facing downwards and you can't move at all and you're looking down thinking, "I'm going to die" and looking down at the ground really, really far away and wondering when they're going to push you out and how fast you're going to go and how far away it really is to the ground and then they push you out and you're just falling."
Me: "....................................................WHY WOULD YOU SAY THAT TO ME. WHY WOULD YOU TELL ME THAT IN SUCH GRAPHIC DETAIL?"
Other people: "Ahh.....yeah it's not that bad really.:
Me: "...............ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGH!!!! :'-( :'-( :'-("

Later, I recount this conversation to Tim.
Tim: "I'm afraid."
Me: "NOW YOU'RE AFRAID! NOW YOU'RE BLOODY AFRAID!"
Tim: "yeah..................but it was a good offer, wasn't it?"
Me: "I GRUDGINGLY AGREE, but I'm NOT HAPPY ABOUT IT."

*******

So that's where we were, emotionally, before the dive.

The prep to skydiving was very surreal. There were three parts of me all vying for attention: the relaxed, logical part, that said, "hmm. I'm strangely relaxed about this." There was the excited part, that said, "I'M SO EXCITED!!! I'M GOING TO JUMP OUT OF A PLANE!!!! This is going to be FRICKING AWESOME." And then there was a tiny wave of panic that occasionally presented itself as, "HOLY SHIT. HOLY, HOLY SHIT." 

Despite Tim and I having a good long talk about not being sold a stupid video or upgrading to 15000 ft (Tim: "12,500 seems plenty high enough"), as soon as the woman sat us down and talked us through the options, we were instantly persuaded both to buy a stupid video, and to upgrade to 15000ft, almost effortlessly (Tim: "12,500 just doesn't seem high enough...."). 

The other couple stayed firm, and jumped out at 12,500ft. 

I went to the loo three times beforehand and I severely regretted that cheesecake. It sat heavily on my stomach, along with the cream and the ice cream, and seemed to be mocking me. 

I got strapped into my jumpsuit. It was orange and quite fetching. I had a moment of panic. It subsided.
I got strapped into my harness. My dive instructor came up to me and tugged on the straps. "These straps look old!" he said. 
Dive instructor 2: "Yeah....they might hold out for this one though."
Dive instructor 1: "Awww man, I've already lost one yesterday."
Dive instructor 2: "It's ok. Three strikes rule, remember?"
Me:  "Am I strike two?"
Dive instructor 1: "Yeah, that's right."
Me: "That's how it works in medicine too."
Dive instructor 2: "Oh yeah? Do they learn surgery from youtube as well?"
Me: "You mean there's some other way to learn surgery?"
Dive instructor 1: "I don't know man, you're the expert. All I know is that I was up till 3am trying to figure out this parachute shit on youtube last night, but I think I've got it."
Me: "How long have you been skydiving?"
Dive instructor 1: "About 18 hours."
Me: *entertained*

I should add that all the way through this, Tim was looking highly anxious, which I considered insulting and rude given that he was the only reason I was there. I felt great. Chilled. Relaxed. Just great. 

Then I saw the plane and I had another little wave of panic. It subsided. 

The plane was a tiny little thing with two benches inside that we slid in on, backs against our instructors. 

Instructor 1: (to me) "Sit on my lap! (I do so) Is she always this flirtatious?"
Tim: "She's uncontrollable."
Instructor 2: "Do you know she offered me $500 to take you out?"
Tim: "$500!"
Instructor 2: "Yeah it's not much is it? Still, I'll do it."
Me: "Aw.....no, I've changed my mind."
Instructor 2: "Pussying out, are we? Well you're not getting your advance back. (To Tim) Ok, since I'm not taking you out any more we may as well strap up. It's your turn to sit on my lap. (Tim does so) It's kind of weird, isn't it?"
Me: "Oh Tim went to a boys' school. This is standard for him."
Instructor 1: "Oh, he likes it that way, does he?"
Tim: "I did NOT go to a boys' school!"
Me: "Yeah, he does."
Tim: *opens and shuts mouth in futile fury.*

*******

We got to 12,500 ft, and the door opened to let the other couple (quite anxious, German) out. This was the first really scary bit for me. Every time one of them jumped out of the plane, the plane would judder upwards and I would think, "HOLY SHIT! HOLY SHIT! Their bodyweight just left the motherfucking plane! We are literally lighter by two people! BECAUSE THEY ARE PLUMETTING TO EARTH!"

Then I'd be all like, "ah well, c'est la vie."

Because being on a plane is so relatively normal and everyday, I was unable to be afraid as we climbed higher and higher. The view was great, the sun was shining, we were on a plane. I've been on a plane loads of times and I'd never yet jumped out of one. My brain, fond follower of inductive reasoning, saw no reason to panic.

They opened the door.
I was not afraid.
Me (in my head): "hmm I really hope I go first. I don't want to go last."
Tim (in his head - as he told me later) "hmm, I really hope Connie goes first. I really do NOT want to go first."
Dive instructor 2: (to Tim) "Well, we're going first!"
Tim: "ah....great."

They shuffled forwards, leaned out, and Tim and Instructor 2 fell out of the door.
I was like
"!!!!!"

Then I was immediately like, "oh well. He's probably having fun on the way down."

Instructor 1: "It's our turn!"
We shuffled forward.
This was the view. 


I was like, "well.....that's a long way to fall."
And then we fell.


I had 1 second of extreme tummy unpleasantness.
And then it was amazing. Just amazing. Not scary at all.


It was a perfect day. The sky was blue. The sky was clear. The lake was as blue as the sky.


And I was falling out of a plane.


I've since learned what the dangling thing is. It's to help keep us straight in the air, and facing downwards.
Look at beautiful, beautiful Lake Taupo. 


I had extreme jealousy at that moment of all skydivers before me. How did this thing exist and I didn't realise how awesome it was? I was overtaken with a wild irrational urge to start base jumping.


This is an amazing photo of the wind blowing my face into the most comedic shapes imaginable.
My mouth was quite dry by the end. 
I was falling quite fast. 


The parachute finally deployed at 1 minute in.
The cameraman waved us goodbye.


And we floated down, into a perfect green field, framed against a perfect blue sky.

****

Try it some time, folks. You might be surprised by just how wonderful it all is. 


Friday, 16 November 2012

The long awaited part II

Dear friends, I hope you are all healthy, wealthy, and the rest. 

This weekend I am finally spending a long-anticipated weekend in Palmy. I have worked my 12 days in a row and I am having a break. I am doing nothing. 

Or rather, I am immersing myself into frippery.

FRIPPERY!

I have done internet shopping (all those years of observing Tori on asos have finally paid off! I am now the proud owner of a ridiculous number of tiny skirts all of which I told myself I would just try on and then return the superfluous ones. Oh, Tori. You knew that pitfall well.) I have made panna cotta. I have baked a cake and iced it (with a crumb layer of icing and a second layer. A real iced cake! I laugh in the face of those who would tell me that a revolving cake stand is a necessity for icing. Tim was my revolving cake stand, and he did a reasonably good job, when he wasn't distracted by trying to pick icing off and eat it when he thought I wasn't looking. Also, surely if you find yourself saying things like, "I find a revolving cake stand a real necessity" you should really just take a break from your life and go and live in the Congo for a few years.) 

I would show you how pretty the cake is but I have used up the number of photos I'm allowed to upload at once. Sad but true. You'll just have to imagine it. Or maybe I'll post it later.

I have spent a very gratifying morning looking up recipes on Felicity's Cloake's blog series and decided I'm going to make cheese souffle and tom yum soup. I have done the laundry. I have made a grocery list. I have emptied the bins. I have tidied the house. I have spent a long time on facebook. I have been to a birthday party. I have done my hair. I have read an Agatha Christie murder mystery. I have watched Masterchef - USA. I am planning on - when we have a car, which will be soon (we are buying one from a friend - the car's nickname is 'Sticky Gerald' or 'Stinky Gerald', which I'm going to assume for the time-being is ironic) - on going to the British store and buying more Robinson's fruit squash than I know what to easily do with. I have read an interview with Mumford and Sons, and another one with Peter Jackson. I am, in short, having a very, very, very lazy weekend. 

I am gratified beyond belief.

And now it is time to fill you in on the rest of our North Island adventure. 

***

Stingrays. Did you know that they are cute and cuddly?
I didn't.

To feed stingrays, you must put on sexy waders.



I mean it. They are sexy.


Disappointingly, New Zealand is far out of the way for Vogue scouts, but if they had been on the beach that day, well, let's just say a frenzy of smartphone activity later and the face of modelling would have been changed forever. 


The face of both male and female modelling.


We were given a tutorial on what stingrays look like by Henrick, our friendly German guide. He drew some in the sand and showed us where we should pet them (on their face) and where we shouldn't pet them (on their fins, and on their tail, duh.) He explained that now it was spring they would be hungry and keen to eat some fish and that when they go out in winter often the stingrays are sluggish and grumpy and not up for eating. And then he made a sad stingray face which looked exactly like this :-( 


We waded out with our sticks. The water was superclear and it was very beautiful, though quite slippery on the reef. 


Henrick caught a crayfish, which to me looked huge, but he told me it was too small to eat. Too small! 
Try telling that to a Chinese person (me). 


And we met Pete the eel ("Dopey Pete" said Henrick. ":-O" said Dopey Pete (see illustration above).)


And then the stingrays came.

Henrick had a bucket full of fish which he rattled in the water and all the stingrays came up into the shallow water, keen for fishy goodness. They flapped around in a friendly fashion and hopefully nibbled at our sticks. Stingrays have no teeth. They are also, strangely, hugely inept at eating fish because their faces are so silly; their mouth so far underneath and their eyes on top and to the sides, so I ended up having to put my hand literally in their mouth to give them to fish, otherwise they would drop it and then flap around sadly looking for it, which they couldn't do because of, as mentioned before, the extreme silliness of their faces. 

When I put my hand in their mouths, they gummed me hopefully, in the anticipation that I too was a fish. I rubbed their faces and they flapped their wings in what I took to be an affectionate and gentle manner, but it may  have simply been disgruntlement. Stingray emotions are hard to read.

The stingrays there are all basically tame, though they live in the wild, because they have been feeding them there for 20 years or so. Henrick told us that even wild ones are very gentle and do not sting except when very frightened. Or, presumably, being harassed by someone very, very annoying.

It was a good day.

The next morning, we went surfing.


Surfing is incredible fun.
Liz, our instructor, first drew sand boards in the beach and we practised all the things we should do on them - getting up, balancing, paddling, falling off etc ("like a starfish! Fall like a starfish!") and then it was our turn in the waves. We had huge, huge longboards, very soft and comfortable to fall onto. I stood up 4 times, and Liz told me that 95% of the time, men catch on faster than women, and she was very gratified to see me trounce my partner in crime. Tim stood up once as well, at the very end. His only statement was, "I knew you would be good at it, damn it." YEAH. 

Out amongst the waves there were many many tens of surfers, even though it was so early - 8am on a chilly Sunday - bobbing and surfing amongst the green waves. I've never experienced so much physical exhilaration as during this stay in New Zealand. Learning to do something new, in a beautiful new environment, making your body perform actions it never has before, has all been very exciting and wonderful. I now have a whole new set of ambitions and skills to improve on before I leave. 

Then we went to Feast.

Feast was a day long food and wine festival (there's another one this weekend in Martinborough as well, btw. Every weekend is a food and wine festival in New Zealand!) and Tim and I walked around, napped, stuffed ourselves, listened to music, drank cider, and all the rest. Over and over for 4 hours. It was the sunniest day you could imagine and I was the happiest you could ever be. We had our own little wine cups to hang on a string around our necks, and a little map of the stalls. And as we walked in, we heard someone say behind us, "well, hello there, boogie boarders." And there was the family from the Rere rockslide! We told them we had been surfing that morning and stingray feeding the day before and they told us again that we were crazy and hoped we would eat plenty of food today, and we agreed with them wholeheartedly. Then Tim had a crisis of identity. 

Tim: "Boogie boarders! Is that what I am? A boogie boarder?"
Me: "No no Tim, you're so much more than that. Here, have some cider."
Tim: "I....I just never thought I'd be called that."

****

Later that night, we started our long drive through Te Urewera National Park, broken by a stay in Lake Whakemarino, in the most dated little lodging house I've ever seen. Our bedroom had fluorescent lighting and no working lock, and curtains that looked like they'd last been changed in the 1920s. But we hadn't come there for curtains.

We came for the view, and the silence.



Te Urewera is 80km of winding, unsealed mountain road that winds around a number of lakes, the biggest being Lake Whakiremoana, Lake of Rippling Waters, a huge volcanic lake. And it deserved its name - its surface is constantly swept by tiny white waves, incredibly beautiful and immediately recognisable from a distance. 


Imagine living here...


....................


....................................................................................................this would be your view every morning............................................................................

If you lived here, you would need a boat.


What about this one, for a Robson?


Tim particularly liked this one. He could use it to go to choir rehearsal and evensong.

We spent a beautiful morning just driving around the National Park, bumping along, eating crackers and crisps and tinned tuna because we didn't have any food (classic). And on the way down into Taupo, we stopped at one of the many geothermal sites that is littered around the area between Rotoroa and Taupo (no time for Rotoroa this journey - another time.)

This park, Waimangu, was the site of the previously famous pink and white terraces, which were silica terraces containing clear turquoise water exactly the right temperature to swim in, apparently, destroyed in the 1886 Tarawera eruption (though they are probably still there, just under the water- a real interesting video). The eruption also created Frying Pan Lake - as you can see below - and a number of beautiful bubbling hot acid pools. 


What I find incredible is that vegetation can grow so close to the edge of the lake. The pH is 2 or 3, and just 1m below the soil, the soil temperature can be 100 degrees centigrade in parts.  The lake is constantly bubbling, not because it's boiling, but because it is acidic, and little bubbles of hydrogen are coming to the surface. 


But though it's not boiling, that doesn't mean it's not hot. Just look at that steam!

A number of colourful algae and bacteria can grow in such difficult conditions. 


And tiny and large geysers abound!


This incredible blue lake is made of suspended silica fragments, which give it its distinctive colour. It ebbs and flows over the course of months, reflecting the area's geothermal energy. Scientists keep track of its levels because it may help predict future eruptions. During this time, it turns from clear to white to blue again. We caught it during its blue time.


Look at that steam!


What appear to be rocks in the sides of the lake is actually just baked mud. 

This whole place was unbelievably fascinating and beautiful, and Tim reacted to it by putting on his David Attenborough Voice, accompanied by his David Attenborough Face, at all times. (see below)


I just felt you deserved an explanation as to what exactly Tim's face was doing in that photograph.

***

Post Hot Springs, Tim and I wandered into Taupo. That evening, we went for a soak in some natural hot springs in a spa close by. The water was super super hot - 41 degrees, and I was dying of heat. We cooled ourselves down by going down a children's dragon slide quite a few times. 

The sad thing about going to the spa was that after we came out, it was 9pm, and by then it was impossible to find anywhere to eat. Everything was closed, man! Taupo was dead. This, we would find, was a recurring theme in New Zealand, and something that I do miss about the UK. Nothing is open when you expect it might be open. Every place we rang up was like, "awww, man....I was thinking of closing up. I sent the staff home early cos there's no one here. I could probably do you some chips if you're desperate." No, thanks, we said, which in hindsight may have been a mistake. Our hotel receptionist suggested we might be able to go to KFC, "but hurry, because they close at 10pm, and then there really won't be anything." I declined. So I had an apple for dinner. Tim had the KFC (which he enjoyed a lot) but then wondered if there was anywhere to get a beer.

There wasn't.

We wandered the streets, feeling like disconsolate alcoholics ("Just one beer! Just one!") and finally went to bed, beerless, at 10:30pm. I suppose maybe it was wise, because after all, the next day was our skydive. We needed to get some rest.

****
The next day actually dawned wet and rainy and we couldn't skydive in the morning as we'd hoped (I'd picked 10:30am as a good time - long enough after breakfast so I wouldn't sick it up again, early enough in the day so I wouldn't be thinking about it all day). Instead, we decided to go to 'the most kitsch attraction in New Zealand' (and remember, this has Hobbiton to contend against) - the Huka Prawn Farm.

Huka Prawn Farm is the world's only geothermally heated prawn farm. We went on a little tour which told us all about the life cycle of the prawn (vicious, involving cannibalism), and got given little fishing rods to fish for prawns (which we could then eat). But best of all, for Tim, was the opportunity to play  Killer Prawn Golf.


You don't actually kill any prawns in Killer Prawn Golf, you simply tee off over the prawn beds and hope to hit certain targets for cash. 


Tim had an amazing time. 
We didn't win any cash.
We also didn't catch any prawns when we went fishing for them. Our technique was clearly off. And the birds ate all my bait. 
But we still had fun! We had fun on the nature walk - 
Guide: "It's...it's really kind of for children. But I guess you could go on it if you like."

Oh yeah.


Tim had the time of his life. 


The place was filled with dangerous obstacles....
This one tipped water on your head unexpectedly from various little buckets....



but Tim did it. Well done, Tim!


Intrepid!Tim.


Too old for this?
I don't know, I didn't want to say.

****

By this time, we felt we'd earned a lunch break. 


"Best of all, you can have prawns all ways in their restaurant," said Lonely Planet.
Lonely Planet is always right. 
Even though we hadn't caught any prawns, we got to buy some.
Money. So useful.


I had a huge mulled wine, which helped cheer me up from my dreary, wet, and prawnless state.


And we also shared the biggest cheesecake I've ever seen outside of the USA.
It came with cream AND ice cream.
That's the way I like it.

I look happy, but in reality, the cheesecake was a mistake, a heavy mistake I felt very strongly as I was being strapped into my jumpsuit for the skydiving. Very strongly.


"I'm afraid," said Tim.
"You're the one who got us here!" I said.
"Yes....yes...." said Tim. "Yes."

There seemed not much else to say.

So we went in.

***********************


And that's a story for another day!



Along with our last ski trip to Ruapehu.



Until next time!

And I've really got to get the laundry out.